Old World, New Destinations
FRIDAY OCTOBER 25, 2024
VIC
Vic is a town of ancient origin, even for Catalonia. Well-known in Roman times, it played strategic roles in various conflicts dating at least as far back as the 8th century, and from the 1600s to the present Vic has been a hotbed of Catalan independence sentiment.
Vic’s relatively off-the-grid location in the Catalonian hinterlands north of Barcelona unfortunately keeps it off the itineraries of most casual visitors to the area, but the old town’s Sant Pere Cathedral (first erected in the 11th century) and remarkably preserved/reconstructed 2nd-century Roman temple are first-rate Iberian historical edifices. Its most famous landmark, the unpaved central square Plaça Major, completely retains the original medieval look and feel, particularly during the weekly Tuesday and Saturday outdoor markets. On the culinary front the city is renowned for its embutidos, locally-made cured sausages that are considered some of the very best in the region.
La Textil
The newest substantial addition to Barcelona’s rapidly-expanding beer scene, La Textil is an atypically large (for Catalonia), rambling American-style industrial-chic brewpub situated in the heart of the very busy and popular Eixample neighborhood. Its ambition has been rewarded by early commercial success, its reputation additionally boosted by virtue of a strong female presence in the brewhouse. La Textil represents perhaps the more cosmopolitan side of the Catalan brewery spectrum, and it proudly offers its own house-made natural sodas and specialty coffees in addition to award-winning beers.
BLACKLAB
Founded in 2014 by a Chinese-Spanish restaurateur and an American brewer, BlackLab epitomizes the entrepreneurial and expat influence on Barcelona’s vibrant craft beer scene. The brewery’s approach to beer-making — focusing primarily on perfecting classic styles and then adding substantial dashes of experimentation — is very much in line with the modern-day Catalan model, and its kitchen creates exotic Asian / New World / Mediterranean flavors that pair well with the fresh ales and lagers on draft.
BlackLab offers live music as well, and is blessed with perhaps the very best location afforded to any brewpub in Catalonia: Barcelona’s scenic and romantic harbor is just around the corner, and three of the city’s most popular, historic and atmospheric neighborhoods—the legendary Gótico, El Born and Barceloneta quarters– are just a few minutes’ walk away from the taproom.
el born / BAR BRUTAL
One of the oldest neighborhoods in Barcelona, El Born is arguably the city’s most exotic area for nightlife. Its evocative winding streets and alleys, many of which date back to the 13th century, house many of the city’s most characterful and essential bars and restaurants, including the ever-popular Can Paixano, arguably Cataluna’s best sparkling wine bar, and Ale & Hop, one of Barcelona’s first dedicated craft beer destinations and a favorite for locals and travelers alike. Perhaps El Born’s greatest contribution to Catalan drink culture however is Bar Brutal.
One of Barcelona’s most popular destinations, this eccentric taverna-styled restaurant was originally a wine shop. Since converting to a restaurant it has offered a small but select tasting menu that’s heavy on seafood, and a large and impressive wine list that changes frequently. Quirkily decorated, but with a coastal-rustic vibe, it’s the perfect place to sample authentic Mediterranean tapas. Most importantly, Bar Brutal is a magnet for both experts and debutantes of natural wine, thanks to an especially knowledgeable staff.
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