HEIGHTS OF CATALONIAN CULTURE
THURSDAY OCTOBER 23, 2025
ABBEY OF MONTSERRAT
The famed Benedictine Monastery of Santa Maria de Montserrat sits atop the jagged 1,236-meter-high mountain range that dominates the landscape from every vantage point in the wide-open Catalan countryside outside of Barcelona. The distinctively pointed rocky backdrop against which the monastery walls were built is quite dramatic, as is the breathtaking vista from the many various elevations vistors can get to, including the very peak of the mountain, accessed via a steep funicular ride.
Many visitors, particularly pilgrims from all regions of Catalonia, come here to view the statue of the Black Madonna, which represents the legendary patron Saint of Catalonia. The diminutive 12th century figure is permanently enthroned above the high altar in the basilica, and every day at 1:00 a boys’ choir dutifully sings her praises.
There are many secular options for visitors to Montserrat: an informative group guided walking tour which culminates in a tasting of the monastery’s very own homemade liqueur; various hikes to different points along the mountain, including some trails at the very top accessing nearby peaks; a world-class art museum, several gift shops and cafes. But the sheer view of the valley below is itself worth the trip…
masia agullons
At the turn of the millennium, Barcelona-born beer enthusiast Carlos Rodriguez began experimenting with homebrewing in his centuries-old farmhouse outside Mediona, a small town set in the wild countryside west of the capital city. Carlos’ dedicated tinkering soon became a mad passion, and around this same time he founded Spain’s first, all-amateur “Mediona” craft beer festival in his tiny, adopted hometown. Meanwhile he also went officially professional as a brewer, launching Masia Agullons in 2009.
Both grand ventures had massive influences on the still-youthful local craft beer scene, and within a couple years, there was a tidal wave of new commercial and amateur brewers starting up in Catalonia and elsewhere in Spain, virtually all inspired directly and personally by Carlos, the “Godfather of Catalan Craft Beer.”
Today Carlos oversees an ever-expanding, fully-professional Mediona festival and continues to perfect his small range of excellent pale ales and aged sours at his own funky farmhouse brewery, which is the very definition of “artisanal.” Carlos is recognized by many of the world’s top brewers as a key figure on the international beer scene, and is a well-known and respected fixture at major festivals in Belgium. But he remains essentially Catalan, welcoming visitors to his 11th century farmhouse with its own makeshift English-style pub (which includes a handpump and an array of house pets).
Carlos’ wife Montse is an equal partner in welcoming guests to the farm, creating amazing and mouth watering tapas on the medieval-looking amd massive stone oven, keeping the horde of enthusiastic dogs in line, and helping out cheerfully in the taproom.
el porrón
Described as a cross between a wine bottle and watering can, the porrón allows groups of imbibers to consume communally without touching lips to vessels — particularly desirable when drinking is accompanied by food! Originating in Catalonia, its proper use — held aloft at arm’s length, allowing the liquid to sail through the air in a tight, straight stream to the mouth — is enforced rigorously, often to comical effect. Until recently, the porrón (“porró” in Catalan) was reserved for wine, but today it’s pervasive at craft beer fests, and typically used for sour beer.
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