Only In Franconia
JULY 27, 2024
Schlüsselfeld Breweries
This special day of Franconian exclusives starts in the small, little-known beer town of Schlüsselfeld (population ca 6000), which boasts two breweries that couldn’t be more different.
Sternbräu Scheubel, an uber-traditional, tiny family company founded in 1828 on the site of an earlier brewery, produces just two regular beers, and as a specialty fills kegs of unfiltered kellerbier for customers to take-home every other Saturday. Located proudly “next to the church” it offers the most classic, down-to-earth Franconian fare in its cozy gasthaus.
Down the road is the quirky and crafty new neighbor, Braumanufaktur Hertl, which calls itself the “smallest, craziest brewery” in Franconia and refers to its flavored ale specialties as “aroma-intensive taste-bombs.” The atmosphere at Hertl is reminiscent of an American garage-micro startup, but the brewery does offer the standard Franconian styles alongside its IPAs and saisons.
Both breweries are worth visits, especially when led by local American transplant-celeb Jim “Bocky” Barnes.
BRULIKELLER: a Franconian exclusive
For centuries, Franconians routinely retreated to wooded mountain or hillside caves (“kellers”) in warmer months to tap the cool lagerbier stored there in winter or spring. With the advent of refrigeration this practice largely disappeared, but on very rare occasions one might come across a small, private group of aficionados who meet to rekindle that rustic tradition. Such a band of dedicated beer fans can be found in the village of Frensdorf, and they offer us an exclusive entrance to their shire-like hideaway. Our private visit is a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to experience a timeless tradition that lives on only in this small corner of the world.
NATURBADESEE FRENSDORF
After a few years visiting the Brulikeller, we discovered that a dive into the cool waters of the adjacent man-made lake was just the thing to follow a generous sampling of delicious cave-fermented lager, especially on a very hot day. A bracing dip in Frensdorf’s popular swimming hole is also a great kick-start to further beer or cocktail forays later on in Bamberg.
BAMBERG
Bamberg has existed since the 9th century, and today boasts a wealth of medieval and baroque architecture. Thanks largely to its having survived World War II intact, it’s considered one of Germany’s most beautiful cities, and the old town center is in fact a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Bamberg is also considered by many the spiritual home of German beer, boasting more breweries per capita than any city in the world. It is indisputably the world’s capital of smoked beer, or “rauchbier.”
DER STEFANSBERG
While an exploration of any one of Bamberg’s seven hills can be richly rewarding, our personal favorite is the Stefansberg. A gentle hike up its ancient cobblestoned streets leads to not only the best and biggest biergarten in town, the woodsy and cosy Wilde Rose, but to the beautifully situated Spezial Keller, a brewery-run outdoor restaurant featuring local rauchbier and the best views of the city. Steps away from either and perfect for a post-beer tipple is the secluded craft-cocktail garden Das Schwarze Schaf (the Black Sheep).
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