Flanders Fields
WEDNESDAY MAY 15, 2024
BRASSERIE THIRIEZ
The tiny French-Flemish hamlet of Esquelbecq was once home to five breweries. Today it has just one. Daniel Thiriez plies his craft on the site of a former family brewery that, like hundreds in France, closed during or after the World Wars. While his ales straddle the line between historical French de garde and Belgian saison styles, Thiriez has also been influential on the modern craft beer scene: local flavor profiles have been energized through his experimentation with foreign hops, and many of America’s most highly-regarded rustic ales utilize the Thiriez “French Saison” yeast.
SINT-SIXTUS-ABDIJ / WESTVLETEREN
The Cistercian abbey of Sint-Sixtus was founded in 1831 near the site of a former monastic community dating to the 12th century. The brewery began operation in 1939, rapidly expanding before being downsized after World War II. In contrast to the high-visibility products offered by other Trappist breweries its “Westvleteren” ales are difficult to acquire outside of the monastery. Beer pilgrims thus flock to Sint-Sixtus’ partner-café In De Vrede, with its placid farmland views, to enjoy Europe’s most elusive beers on-site.
BROUWERIJ DE STRUISE
This quirky brewery’s name has roots both in the Flemish word for “ostrich” (the owner having dabbled in ostrich farming) and the Dutch word for “sturdy” — hence the bird logo and moniker The Sturdy Brewers. Urbain Coutteau, one of the more affable, colorful characters in the Belgian beer world, built his brewery and offices within a former schoolhouse. His classroom-turned-taproom offers a list of Struise beers that run the gamut of Belgian, European and American styles, with a slant towards bold and whimsically-named strong specialty brews.
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